A Glimpse of the Culinary Adventures of Old Hollywood“Santa Claus has the right idea: visit people once a year.” ~ Victor Borge December 26th marks a day to spend with family, a return to work, and in some shopaholics, prompts one more mad dash to the mall to return or cash in those material goods gleaned from the day before. Some of us, after visiting with family members, gladly count ourselves among the less hardy souls who find some solace in the week-long “limbo” that seems to occur after Christmas and before the New Year. A bit of reflection will teach us one more time that the elusive “perfect gift” isn’t necessarily what the special people in our lives need. The real needs that do require attention should be pretty obvious when one looks around the living room.Some of us may be in serious need of help cleaning up the debris from the Christmas wrappings that still may litter the living room. Oh, and while you’re at it, be sure that you don’t experience the unalloyed pleasure of finding those missing game parts that somehow went missing by stepping on them in your stocking feet. The oath you make when discovering this significant artifact, could go against you next year in Santa’s Naughty or Nice list.
Sure, some of us turn reflexively to the Food Network, or have Mom’s old Joy of Cooking to leaf through for ideas to feed the herd at home over vacation. More ambitious cooks might pick up Julia Child’s French Chef Cookbook or seek out the sound advice of the mythical Betty Crocker or the practical Fanny Farmer for inspiration, but, for those of us who are classic movie fans, there are other, less traditional sources of culinary stimulation. One of the pleasures of exploring cinema history is discovering forgotten creative people who made the movies golden in the studio era. Surprisingly, I’ve also discovered that in the 1930s, as Hollywood became a dazzling corporate behemoth that shaped the cultural life of the nation, several books were published to meet the alleged demand of curious public for household hints from the stars. It wasn’t enough for movie favorites to weave dreams of perfection on screen for audiences. Men, and particularly women, also had to be “just folks” on the home front. Midgie Knight’s Hollywood Hundred: Famous Recipes of the Movie Stars by—who else?—Midgie Knight, burst upon an unsuspecting world in 1932. Another author, a personage with the unlikely name of Delight Evans, the editor of Screenland magazine, brought out an equally fascinating glimpse into the kitchen adventures of the glamorous few when she gathered Hollywood Recipes: Food Secrets of the Movie Stars in 1938. My favorite line from Delight Evans‘ book claims that these recipes were alleged to be “how Hollywood eats for health and beauty”. Here are a few samples of the recipes in this book, to give you a flavor of the kind of cooking described. You be the judge about the healthy aspects of the dishes, and see if you think that the Star really seems to be paired with the appropriate repast: My two favorite recipess are from two Crawfords:
There’s something so fitting about pairing Mr. Crawford, whose talented bull-in-the-china-shop manner always interests me, with a cabbage. The only other item that might have been more appropriate would be a cauliflower. Slice cabbage very thin and crisp in ice water. Chop onions fine, grate carrots and slice apple in thin wedges. Cube the eggs. Mix with the drained cabbage and add dressing which has been combined with cream. If desired, thin wedges of pineapple may be added. and, Ingredients: Boil noodles in salted water. Drain well. Send to table in chafing dish. Add butter and grated cheese to noodles. Cook, stirring and lifting constantly with wooden spoon and fork, until noodles are smooth and creamy. Just before serving, pour in, slowly, 1/2 cup thick cream. Blend thoroughly. Serve over turkey slices about 1/2 inch thick. For turkey slices; heat olive oil in heavy skillet. Beat egg yolk slightly with 2 tablespoons milk. Dip slices in flour (seasoned with salt, pepper, paprika) then in beaten egg and then in flour. I love the part about “One slice of turkey per person should be sufficient.” Maybe Joan really did write this recipe. Though how she kept that figure with the egg and cream in this one is a mystery.
While you might want to reserve the “Shirley Temples“, with the ginger ale, grenadine, maraschino cherry for the designated drivers, you can, allegedly relish a few pops just like some screen legends, according to several vintage articles on imbibing like a star. A “Douglas Fairbanks Cocktail” supposedly used to be served in better restaurants in the twenties. Like Doug, it consisted of a generous dash of Plymouth gin, French Vermouth, and a zesty orange and lemon peel to give it some bounce. A “Johnny Weissmuller” concoction asks for a splash of gin, light rum for buoyancy, and a nice blend of tart lemon juice, powdered sugar, grenadine to help you swing from your own jungle. One of the more intriguing drinks created, no doubt, by a bored bartender during Lent was called a “Mae West“, which called for a potent amount of brandy, an egg yolk, a generous topping of powdered sugar and cayenne pepper for garnish. I guess the powdered sugar was to mimic Mae’s famous platinum tresses. Of course, like the lady herself, the cayenne adds that some fiery wit to the elixir.
Betty Goodwin presents the lost world of Los Angeles with a particular appreciation for the style of the people and their city, the art deco and mid-century modern design of the buildings, as well as the good food and good times that she describes in detail. More can be read about her books at Angel City Press . The oddly entertaining recipe books of Midgie Knight and Delight Evans are long out of print, but may occasionally be found second-hand. After this gustatory pilgrimage through the imagined and real past, I’m feeling as though reading about all the eating and drinking in Old Hollywood has left me pretty full for the moment. I’ll have to unearth some of those vintage cookbooks again to look for some “satisfying” diet recipes from the stars. In the meantime, I’ll be making some turkey stock for tomorrow’s soup for my family. Simple, familiar, and real, but just as satisfying when enjoyed in the glow of the Christmas tree with the family and some fascinating books about those multi-talented movie people. 6 Responses A Glimpse of the Culinary Adventures of Old Hollywood
I think Broderick left out one important ingredient in his Apple Cabbage slaw recipe – cigarette ash, modestly sprinkled over the bowl while you're mixing it. And I don't believe Joan Crawford would actually eat more than a biteful of her turkey and noodle lardfest – half pound of butter? half pound of cheese? Half a cup of olive oil plus milk and eggs? Thank you for these. I feel really full and I haven't eaten anything. Thanks for the encouragement, Medusa & Jeff. Hey, that ash probably added quite a piquant smoky flavor to the Broderick Crawford's slaw! Maybe if Joan Crawford had lightened up on the self-discipline once in awhile and had that extra slice of turkey cutlet swimming in a heavy cream sauce, she'd have been a happier (and chubbier) woman. One other Hollywood source of culinary amusement that I should probably have touched on here, since it's one of the few joints I'd like to have visited:The Players, which was run (more or less), by Preston Sturges at 8225 Sunset across the street from the Garden of Allah, beginning in 1940. The writer-director's restaurant was well known for carrying lovable ne'er do wells on the cuff for months at a time and for a waitstaff that would readily abscond with a side of beef out the back door if the tips were small that night. Sturges held forth there for several years, imperiously tossing out anyone who struck him as annoying, and also consoling, aiding and abetting several Hollywood pros big and small, whether their careers or personal lives were on the up or the down swing. The likes of director Edmund Goulding, scenarist Donald Ogden Stewart and Humphrey Bogart might all show up to lick their wounds and drink to their good fortune on a regular basis, according to lore. The attraction was supposed to have the company as well as some of the finest and most extravagantly prepared food on the west coast.One of the other reasons that the restaurant never made a sustainable profit was that the owner kept building on, and adding new wings and anterooms to the large structure. This somehow hung together for about 13 years, no doubt in part due to Sturges' own phenomenal success during that time. He eventually built a theatre at The Players, allegedly to make the restaurant more profitable. Well ahead of the dinner theater craze of the '70s, Mr. Sturges thought that he would offer plays along with the good food, but, his own fortunes soon dwindled to the point where, in 1953, a blanket lien took the beloved playground away from him for good. He'd only recently built a downstairs hamburger window too, where Sturges himself would dole out the chow to passers-by—if he liked their looks. Oh, to be a fly on that wall. Wonderful posting, makes me feel like a real shirker with my annual Christmas Recipe effort. Now at a little over 250 recipes. Wondering if you have any special Christmas treats I might include in future editions. I have one of the Midgie Knight recipe books from 1932. It has 100 recipes of the movie stars, plus 100 exclusive portraits. Do you have any itea as to the value of this cookbook and who may be interested in purchasing such an item? I’m sorry Deb, but I wouldn’t know about the value of such a book. I might suggest looking at ebay, Amazon, Alibris and other sources online that specialize in the second-hand market for books. I think that they may give you some idea of the going price for such a book. I might also suggest showing it to a local book dealer near you to see what he or she can tell you about the value. Good luck with your search. Leave a Reply |
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Oh, man, Moira — movies and food, two of my very favorite things!What a delightful article and it's made me want to watch some old movies and eat…which come to think of it I always want to do anyway but your posting just intensified my desire!Thanks for a wonderful trip down memory lane, as always!